| Related sites for http://www.exotic-hibiscus.com/ |
| Kipapa_Nursery A Hawaiian plant nursery located, on the Island of Kauai, providing many tropical plant varieties including ocean tolerant plants. | | Lauray_of_Salisbury Connecticut grower of tropical plants, including orchids, gesneriads, begonias and cacti. | | Living_Green_Plantscape_Design Living Green Plantscape Design brings you an eclectic selection of artifacts, specimen tropical foliage and objects reflecting the wonder and simple beauty of Nature. | | Logee\'s_Greenhouses Offers a sampling of many rare and unusual flowering plants for home, sunroom, patio, and conservatory display. | | Madagascar__Tropicals Nursery offering Platycerium (Staghorn) ferns and Epiphytes for sale or rental. | | Malesiana_Tropicals Malaysian nursery specialized in micropropagation of exotic plants offering aroids, carnivorous plants, palms, and gingers, as well as a small variety of aroid seeds. | | Maui_Plumeria_Gardens Hawaii grower offers a variety of plumeria plants, cuttings, and seeds. Online catalog with photos. | | Montoso_Gardens Nursery in Puerto Rico specializing in tropical fruits, heliconias, gingers, bromeliads and other tropical plants and seeds. | | Nature_Perfect Distributors and wholesalers of braided bamboo, lucky bamboo (dracaena), money tree (pachira), bonsai, hydroponics, grow lights, and indoor house plants. | | Packer_Nursery Suppliers and growers of cycad and palm seedlings; specializing in Areca, Bamboo, Fishtail, Lady, Parlour and Pygmy Date palms. | | Palm_Farm Sells tropical indoor plants and palms for gifts and house decor. | | The_Palm_Shop Offering a wide range of exotic and rare palm trees for both indoors and out. Free palm tree problem solving and growing guides available. | | Plumerias_UK Specialist nursery in Southwest England offering plumeria seedlings and rooted cuttings. | | Rainforest_Flora Growers and distributors of tillandsias, bromeliads, and other exotic plants. | | Rare_Exotics Grower in Los Angeles specializing in oddities from around the world, including bromeliads and cycads, bulbs, corals, orchids, and a wide range of succulents. | | Rare_Plant_and_Seed_Nursery Source for passionflowers, exotic and tropical flowers and fruits, and houseplants in San Diego, also offering a rare plant finder service. | | Rivers_End_Nursery Offers tropical flowering, fruit, and shade trees, spice bushes, bamboo, and palms, as well as related supplies. Based in Texas. | | Royal_Palms_Enterprises Grows and sells potted plants from Hawaii including ginger, heliconia, bananas, costus, calathea, gardenias, coffee and many trees, shrubs, and vines. | | Saflora_Plant_Nursery Specialist nursery for South African and Australian plants. Offers proteas and clivias, banksias, leucospermum and leucadendron. Based in Ceredigion, Wales. | | Stokes_Tropicals Sells a range of tropical plants, including bananas, gingers, Helconias and Plumeria. | | Strictly_Hibiscus Exotic multi-colored hybridized and standard hibiscus plants, flowers, and trees. | | Taro_and_Ti_Farm Florida nursery selling a variety of Taro plants (the source of poi), Ti leaf plants, gingers and other tropicals. | | Teakettle_Enterprises_Ltd_ A wholesale grower & distributor of ornamental plant seeds. Specializes in palm and cycad seeds. Located in Central American country of Belize. | | Thompson_Citrus_Groves Container grown citrus trees direct from the nursery. Offers oranges and Texas Rio Red grapefruit. | | Toobees_Exotics Offers succulents, bromeliads, cycads, and other exotics, specializing in natives of Madagascar and Africa. Photos, care information. Based in UK, ships throughout Europe. | | Top_Tropicals_LLC Nursery specializing in rare tropical plants including orchids, specialty roses, cacti, and exotics. Online searchable catalog and ordering, forum. | | A_Touch_of_the_Tropics Grower of tropical hibiscus in California presents a thumbnail gallery of its selections, company overview, and listing of market schedule. | | Treeborne_Gardens Sells Bromeliads and Tillandsias, both retail and wholesale. | | Tropic_Garden_of_Germany Wuppertal, Germany grower specializing in tropical and marginally winter-hardy plants. | | Tropic_Nature Hawaii supplier of a varied selection of plumeria cuttings. | | Tropical_Flower_Farm_of_Puerto_Rico Specializes in heliconias, gingers, and tropical flowering trees and plants. Ships to US and territories. | | TropicalPlants Nursery selling the Golden Lotus - Musella Lasiocarpa at the flowering stage, in Europe and Worldwide. | | Wanapluk_Garden Thai company offering tropical plants, including adenium, croton, euphorbia, hoya, orchids, plumerias, palms, and cycads. Online catalog with photos. | | Yucca_International Sells plants of the species yucca. It contains information on many of the sub species as well. Included is also information on winter hardiness and type availability. | | Breakthrough-Letters Write letters online, in your own words, using breakthrough templates that guide you and personalize your letters by adding stationery, fonts and music, in minutes. | | Classic_Correspondence Offers classic books serialized as personal letters, unique to each recipient. Features available titles and samples. | | Cool_Beenz Personalised letters from one of the characters of your choice. All letters are unique, and are sent in a bright red envelope direct to the child. | | Daniels_Custom_Letters Subjects include holidays, Santa, Tooth Fairy, and new baby. Also offering certificates. | | Happy_Mail_For_Kids Kids love to get mail. Crafts, recipes, poems, coloring sheet, special surprises, stickers galore and a personalized letter all addressed and mailed to your child. | | HoildayPostMark_com Holiday post marks for Christmas, Halloween, Valentines and other seasonal events. |
|
Hidden Valley Hibiscus. Welcome to Hidden Valley HibiscusLast Open House for 2008!Saturday, October 25, 11:00-4:00 'Allure' Twins'Ain't She Sweet' in Page BorderVisit the HVH Online Store Belle du Jour in a 6" PotThe HVH 2008 Online Store is open with many exotic, tropical hibiscus varieties and all the care products your hibiscus need to stay happy and healthy. Happy shopping!"Just HAD to let you know - the plants arrived today... someone had to wake me up, because I SWOONED... they are so beautiful! Thank you so much for your care, the awesome blooming hibiscus and the amazing customer service on my request and in RECORD time. Please know that I am now a customer and fan forever. Thank you" Diane D"Thank you so much. I received the plants last week and they are gorgeous. I just placed an order for two more plants. Again, thank you for the beauties." Sheila J Diane and Sheila are just a few of the many happy HVH customers. Read more customer comments here! The photo above shows the typical size of plants in 6" pots (this is cultivar 'Belle du Jour') at the time of shipping, although size varies by cultivar and we don't guarantee the open blooms. See Terms & Conditions for more information on our guarantees and shipping policy. Expert Advice... by Charles BlackCharles Black answers hibiscus questions. Charles is a world renowned hybridizer and grower of exotic hibiscus, as well as the owner of Hidden Valley Hibiscus. He has created many award winning hibiscus varieties, such as Heaven Scent, Her Majesty, Simple Pleasures, and Love Story. In this column, he shares his expertise in growing hibiscus with our visitors. Enjoy! Drip, Drip, DripHow to Build Your Own Drip Watering System 'April Showers' 'Acapulco Gold'Some say that leaky faucets led to the discovery of the benefits of drip watering. The story goes that weeds growing huge where the water dripped gave gardeners the first idea that a slow steady drip might be a beneficial way to water. Nowadays we know that leaky faucets are hard on the pocket book (continuing leaks cause a huge loss of water over time), but commercial and home growers have proven time and again that dripping water into the root zone of many plants provides the best plant performance and is the most economical way to water. Many people are tempted to give it a try, but a lack of familiarity with how to do it is what stops most from going ahead. Below we take a practical look at how and why to set up a home drip system. Why Use a Drip System? 'Magic Moments'The why is easy. Hibiscus need a plentiful supply of water in the root zone. Plants "drink" their nutrients, and minerals dissolved in the water they absorb (including fertilizer) are what plants use to grow and bloom. If hibiscus do not get enough water during the heat of summer, they will slow down or stop both growing and blooming. They may also drop leaves so that they do not need as much water. In such a case, the plant will look OK, with some green leaves remaining, but it is likely to sit there doing nothing while we wonder what is wrong. We give it fertilizer, but still nothing. So we scratch our heads and perhaps give up. The only problem is likely to be a lack of sufficient water where and when the hibiscus needs it. Once it receives ample water, some time will be needed before growth and flowering resume, but eventually the hibiscus will come back to life and start making glorious flowers again.  'Acadian Spring'Hibiscus roots are concentrated in the first 2 feet of soil under the ground and directly below the plant canopy. Although some roots will grow further down or out to the side to find water, all you have to do to water hibiscus well is soak it into the first 2 feet of soil below the plant. A very old or large bush may benefit from deeper soaking, but for most hibiscus soaking down 2 feet will be enough. Soil dries from the top down, so by watering hibiscus a little deeper than the roots go, you encourage them to grow downward. Ideally they will find a water source below the ground, but until this happens they are totally dependent on rain and what you provide. Different types of soils have to watered according to their needs. Sandy soil will allow water penetration easily, but will also dry out very quickly. Other soils, such as what we have in our yard, are rocky and resist penetration by water. Heavy clay soils are the hardest to deal with, and usually require some work before planting. Improving the soil in the garden by adding appropriate organic matter is always a good idea, but that is another topic for another day.  'Solar Eclipse'OK, you say, I realize my hibiscus plants need more water. I have a hose and will just soak them more. Actually, that is better in most cases than not watering enough, but it is not ideal. Why? Two main reasons - first it takes a lot of our precious time to soak each plant every day. In the end it usually turns out not to be every day, and sometimes several days go by without our being able to get to it. Second, in an effort to provide enough water as quickly as possible, most of us will use the full volume of water flow available. In pots this can result in flooding the potting mix, filling air pockets and driving out the vital oxygen that plant roots need. In the ground this style of watering often results in much of the water flowing off to the side before it has a chance to sink down into the root ball. Uneven watering - either too much or too little - is the normal result when watering with a hose. Sprinklers are not the answer either unfortunately. Sprinkler systems are made to water the entire surface area of a yard or garden area, but the water volume is only enough to water the top 2-3 inches of the soil. This is what a lawn needs, so sprinklers work well for lawns, and in fact, lawns are what most sprinkler systems were designed for. But in order to get water down to the bottom of your hibiscus' root balls, you would have to run your sprinklers for several hours. For most people, before the water ever reaches the necessary soil depth, it will run off the yard onto streets, sidewalks, and driveways, never reaching the bottom roots of your hibiscus plants.Remember, the goal is to water your hibiscus so that the water penetrates down 2-3 feet and spreads outward 1-2 feet from the main stem of the hibiscus. You can picture a column of water 2-3 feet wide and 2-3 feet deep centered under the hibiscus. A drip system will do this for you naturally. As the water drips from an emitter or similar device, it soaks in and spreads out naturally, without driving the air from the soil or potting mix. Drip systems are normally turned on and off by timers, freeing you to enjoy your garden in other ways than just watering it. Drip watering systems are suitable for potted hibiscus, too. The goal with pots is to soak the entire root ball with about 10 percent of the water draining out of the holes so that salts do not build up inside the pot. How Much will a Drip System Cost?The total cost of a complete drip system will be between $50 and $400, depending on how many plants you need to water and how automated you want the system to be. Costs vary according to what the system can or cannot do. The more flexible and convenient the system, the more it is likely to cost. However, a good basic system that can do all that you normally need to do will not cost that much. We were spending an hour a day watering our home garden by hand before installing the system, and consider that our $350 system paid for itself in a week through time saved. Even more important is the improved look and health of our hibiscus once they received enough water from an hour of dripping water each morning. The most expensive part of our system was the emitters. We bought ones that can be adjusted to emit anywhere from 0-10 gallons of water per hour. These cost about $1 each, but non-adjustable ones cost much less. Instead of using adjustable emitters to handle the different water needs of hibiscus that are much different in size, you can also use more than one emitter per plant for the larger plants. For instance, if we had bought 2-gallon-per-hour emitters, we could have used these for all the plants but then added a second emitter for medium-sized plants and a third emitter for our largest hibiscus.To "do it yourself" you will need some parts, but all of them are available at Home Depot or Lowe's at reasonable cost. The main thing to remember is that each company that makes these parts does it a little differently, apparently in an attempt to force you to use their parts exclusively. Unfortunately, their strategy works. When you buy 1/2" black poly pipe it will vary slightly in diameter according to who makes it. That means you can't attach one brand to the other, even though both say they are half inch poly pipe. Grrr! Same with the fittings, which are the parts you use to connect extensions or side pipes to each other. My advice is to do all your drip system shopping at either Lowe's or Home Depot and remember which one you used, so you can add to the system in the future without coming up against mismatched sizes.Of course, you can let your fingers do the walking and call a landscape maintenance company to give you a quote on setting up a system. This is obviously the easiest method, and should provide excellent results. But it is much more expensive and perhaps less satisfying than building your own system. If you want to do it yourself, you will save money and really understand your system when it is up and working. It's not hard to do, even for those with only a small amount of "do it yourself" experience. Isn't it Hard to Set up a Drip System? It Must be Too Hard for Someone Like Me!That's the surprising thing about drip systems! They are EASY to set up! Once you decide which hardware store to use, you'll find all the pieces you need all together in one part of the store, so even a beginner can manage to get the right parts. You can stand right there in the store and push the parts together to make sure you got ones that fit each other and come out the way you thought they would. If you've tried working on plumbing, can't even manage to break open a pipe joint with a pipe wrench, and have decided that plumbing just isnt' for you, that doesn't matter with drip systems! The parts just slide together without glue or tools.  A Hose Bib (Faucet)The Easiest Way to Connect Your SystemYou don't have to be strong or smart or know anything about plumbing. If you're terrible at measuring and planning and drawing little blueprints (as Cindy is!), you can just buy plenty of everything and start laying the 1/2" poly pipe out on the ground where you think you want it, then just move it around until you find a plan that works. This is the "artisitic" approach to building a drip system. It may not be the most efficient way to figure your plan out, but it works just fine. Don't let your two left thumbs and lack of mechanical, construction, or plumbing ability scare you away from this project. It's EASY! If Cindy can do this, anyone can!Here We Go... How to Set up a Basic Drip System for up to 150 PlantsOK, enough of the theory. Let's get down to the nuts and bolts of how to set up a drip system. Here are the steps to use in building your own drip system:Determine where you can connect to your current water supply: This can be either a hose bib (outside faucet where you connect a hose) or a place where you can cut into an existing water line. If you have no experience working with PVC pipe and water supply lines, you should just use the regular hose bib or faucet connection. You just buy a threaded connector that screws into the faucet, then push the poly pipe onto the connector. No glue or tools are needed! This hose bib connector is the first item on your list of parts. The Basic Layout1/2" Black Poly Pipe Laid within 1-6' of Each Plant1/4" Brown Poly Pipe Connects Each emitter to the Black Poly PipeWells around plants hold water from dripper right above rootsSketch a plan for the main line of water: Once you know your starting point, draw on paper (or mentally if that works best for you) a plan for laying out the flexible black 1/2" pipe called "poly pipe" that will be the main water supply for your garden. The pipe should travel from the point of connection at the hose bib around the garden so that the pipe lies within 1 to 6 feet of each hibiscus. The layout can be circular or planned as a grid, with side pipes going off at right angles to the main pipe. The poly pipe is not very flexible but is flexible enough to make a circle over a fairly wide area. If you need it to make a hard turn at some point that is not a problem using a T or L connector which we will discuss later. The idea now is to determine how much poly pipe you will need to buy. It is usually found in 50, 100, and 500 foot lengths and does not cost much so we recommend you get the amount calculated from your drawing and then add a bit extra so you don't run out and have to make another trip to the store.The layout of the water pipe in the garden can be anything you want. There are parts that slide into the pipe so that the pipe can be connected at various angles, go up steps, curve over arches, turn 90 degrees, and so forth. The most common of such parts are shaped like X, L. T, or Y and are hollow pieces of plastic that are inserted into the 1/2" pipe. They are made to fit tight enough that water will not leak out, nor will the pipe pull easily from the connector, without glue or any other connection pieces. Our system consists of 250 feet of 1/2" poly pipe with enough 1/4" pipe and emitters connected to it to water 150 hibiscus and other plants. The main pipe is laid out in a big circle with a side pipe that extends over a jasmine-covered archway and sidewalk into another flower bed on a different side of the house. Our normal water pressure had been sufficient to water all 150 plants at one time with this system, using settings from 1-8 gallons per hour on the emitters, depending on the size of the plant. So feel free to design the system according to your needs, as almost any setup can be accommodated by this type of system.We did not discuss visibility of the watering pipes yet. Some people prefer that they are buried as much as possible. This is a lot more work and is not necessary if there is some type of ground cover that will hide them. Others do not mind them and after they are installed never even notice them. If you do decide to bury the 1/2' pipe, then just dig a shallow trench (4" deep and 4" wide is plenty) wherever you want the pipe to be. Do not cover over the pipe until the 1/4 inch pipe is connected and the system has been tested. Covering it makes the addition of new emitters more difficult, but the benefit of not being able to see the pipe is worth it to some. Roll of Black 1/2" Poly Pipe (top)T Connector, Stake to Anchor Pipe to Ground, End Closer (left to right)Use these parts to lay poly pipe around garden, between plants.Calculate how much 1/2" poly pipe and how many connectors you need: Roughly measure off your garden and use your sketch to calculate the length of 1/2" poly pipe you need. Make a list of the various connectors you need to create your planned line: L connectors for corners, T connectors for joining one piece of pipe into the middle of another, end closers for each end you create, stakes to anchor the pipe to the ground. It's smart to buy more than you think you need! No matter how carefully you calculate, something unforseen always comes up, or you somehow manage to break a part while you're working. So calculate what you think you need, and add a bit more of everything to make sure you have what you need.Count your plants: Each hibiscus (or other plant) is watered by one emitter on a drip system. An emitter is merely a plastic part that allows drips of water to come out when the water pressure is within a certain range. There are many variations on this idea available but what you need to know now is that you need to buy 1 emitter for every plant that is to be watered. Count the plants you intend to water and note the number. Spiked Dripper for Each Plant (left)Roll of Brown 1/4" Poly Pipe (right)Decide what type of emitter you want: The end point of the 1/4" pipe can apply water in many ways. Drippers are one type of emitter. Others are called bubblers when more than a drip of water is allowed to pass through. Some are mini-sprinklers that can spread the water over a larger area, and others are sprayers that spray a small amount of water over a 45, 90. or 180 degree area. You can even attach a small diameter soaker hose to water an area of ground cover. There are many possibilities for using a drip system, but for watering hibiscus you need to attach as an end point an emitting device that allows 2-8 gallons per hour of water to soak into the ground around the main stem of the hibiscus.For our drip system, we chose an adjustable 0-10 gallons per hour dripper that comes ready-made on a stake, with a built in connector to join it to the 1/4" poly pipe, and with an included connector to join the 1/4" pipe to the 1/2" pipe. It's called an "Adjustable Dripper on Spike" and it's made by Dig Manufacturing. (See picture at right) This emitter is easy to use for beginners because you only need one emitter per plant since you can adjust the water flow, and don't have to buy any extra connectors. They cost $1 each, so they're more expensive than other emitters, but they work well and they're easy connect to the system. Plus you save the cost of the 2 connectors.In order to make these emitters gather the water right over the roots of the hibiscus, we dug small wells around the base of each plant. The wells hold the water and allow it to soak down into the roots gradually.Calculate how much 1/4" poly pipe you need: The emitters are connected to the 1/2" black poly pipe by a smaller flexible pipe that is normally referred to as 1/4" poly pipe. This is even cheaper than the 1/2" pipe and available in rolls of 100'. Remember when we planned to place the 1/2" pipe within 1-6 feet of each plant? That is because we will use the 1/4" pipe in lengths of 1-6' to connect each emitter to the 1/2 inch (main) water pipe. So, if you are going to water 50 hibiscus or other plants, and the average distance from the 1/2" poly pipe is going to be 3 feet, then you will need 50 x 3 or 150 feet of 1/4" poly pipe. In reality you allow some slack in this pipe so would purchase 200 feet instead of the 150 feet calculated. Small Tool to Punch Holes in 1/2" PipeBuy the parts: Now you're ready to buy the parts. You've been making a list as you've gone through each step, so you should be ready to go to the store. Make a quick check of your list before you go to make sure it has all these parts:connector to join the hose bib (faucet) to the 1/2" poly pipe1/2" poly pipe and a rough estimate of how much you needT connectors, L connectors, and straight coupler connectors for the 1/2" poly pipeend closers for the 1/2" poly pipe (they look like a double ring)stakes to anchor the 1/2" poly pipe to the ground1/4" poly pipe and a rough estimate of how much you need (3' or so per plant)emitters (1-3 per plant, depending on what type you choose)connectors that join the 1/4" pipe to the 1/2" pipe (if your emitters don't include them)connectors that join the emitters to the 1/4" pipe (if your emitters don't include them)a tool that punches the correct size hole in the 1/2" pipe so that the 1/4" pipe fits without leaking Ground Stake Pinning 1/2" Pipe to the Ground (above)T Connector Joining 2 Pieces of Pipe (below)The tools you need are:sharp pruning shears to cut the 1/2" and 1/4" poly pipe.hammer to drive small stakes into the groundGetting all the parts needed is probably the hardest part of building your own watering system. Inevitably more than one trip to the store will be needed. In theory you will get everything you need the first time, but in reality it often does not work that well. We know one fellow who prefers to buy more than he needs and then he returns the left over parts for credit. We prefer to keep left over parts for future projects, but any way you do it the cost is not high.Assemble Your Drip SystemPut the Main Water Line Together: Start by connecting the 1/2" poly pipe to the hose bib using the connector you bought. Then lay out the 1/2" pipe all around your garden, between your plants, as you planned. Use pruning shears to cut each long piece to the length you want. Lay out all side pieces and extra loops you need to cover all places in your garden. Make sure your 1/2" pipe runs withing 6' or less of all your plants. Join the 1/2" poly pipe pieces together with plastic connectors - couplers, T's, L's, etc. Just push these connectors into the pipe. Anchor the 1/2" pipe to the ground with a few stakes at strategic points, such as at ends, corners, or in the middle of long stretches. Just hammer the stake into the ground and the hook at the top will catch and hold the pipe. Flush and Close the System:  End Connector Closing End (double rings below)Stake Pinning 1/2" Pipe End to Ground (above)Once the 1/2" pipe is in place and connected everywhere, run the water through it to test that all connections hold and to clean any plastic debris or dirt out of the pipes so that this debris does not clog the emitters later on. When it is all flushed out and watertight, close all open ends of the 1/2" pipe with plastic end closers. An end closer is just a set of two plastic rings. Thread the end of the 1/2" pipe through one ring, fold the end (it's the fold that closes the pipe), and thread it back through the second ring to hold the fold in place.Attach Emitters: Now you're ready to attach your emitters. For each plant in your garden:Pick a spot on the 1/2" poly pipe that is closest to the plant, and use the special tool to punch a hole in the 1/2" pipe.Cut a piece of 1/4" pipe long enough to reach to the plant, allowing a little extra slack.Find the connector that came with your emitter (in our case, it was attached to the emittor, and we just had to snap it off), and push it into the hole you just made in the 1/2" pipe.Push the piece of 1/4" pipe you just cut onto the connector to join it securely to the 1/2" pipe.Attach the emitter to the other end of the 1/4" pipe. If your emitter does not have a built-in connector, you will need to use a separate connector. Ours had a built-in connector and attached directly to the 1/4" pipe. Emitter attaches to 1/4" pipe (left)1/4" pipe attaches to 1/2" pip (right)Emitter spike is pushed into the groundStake the emitter to the ground very close to the base of the plant by pushing the spike of the emitter into the ground.If your emitter is adjustable, open it a little bit by twisting the top. You can adjust the exact amount later when you get the whole system going.Move on and repeat this process to attach an emitter for every plant in your garden.Turn on the water at the faucet, then adjust each emitter to get the water flow you want for each plant. When the flow is perfect for each plant, leave the water on for about an hour to water your garden. Voila! You now have a drip system!If you have more than 150 plants, build two of these drip systems - one for each half of your yard. Either connect the systems to separate hose bibs or use a splitter on a single hose bib to connect two systems to one bib. You can build as many drip systems as you need for the size of your yard. Most people's water pressure can only handle watering about 150 plants at a time, so when you water, run each drip system separately.Of course, there are more things you can do with your drip system now that you have it. You can add an automatic timer so you don't have to manually turn it off and on. We'll teach you how to add a timer next month. You can even add a fertilizer injector so you don't have to manually fertilize. You can add in little soaker hoses for ground cover areas, or bigger emitters for trees, or little sprinkers for grassy or mossy areas. Once you have the basic system in place and know how to add things to it, you'll find yourself getting very creative with it. There's nothing like building it yourself to give you the confidence to tailor it to the needs of your own yard! So have fun, and good luck with your new watering system! We know you will thoroughly enjoy having a watering system in place and that your hibiscus will flourish like never before!!!!! Recharge your Hibiscus with Growth Enhancers Our Newest Growth Enhancer "Super Nova"With Crème de CacaoThis is the second time this year that we have featured growth enhancers - for a very good reason! At HVH, growth enhancers have become our first line of defense and offense against every kind of hibiscus stress or disease. We use them on our baby plants as a preventative to keep them strong and healthy, and to help them fight off any microbes in the air, water, or soil, as well as to help them bounce through any kind of external stress. Growth enhancers have become the first thing we use for any plant that has been stressed by disease, flooding, drought, too much cold, or too much heat. It seems hard to believe that one product type could do all of this, and we hesitated to rave about these new products too much when we introduced our first growth enhancer after seeing only preliminary results. But after a year of use now, we HAVE to rave about them! Growth enhancers are the most amazing new products we have found in the last few years, and we feel like we finally have something that can help us pull our hibiscus through almost anything.Growth enhancers can't work miracles, of course. If a plant is dead, it is dead, and nothing can bring it back. But if your hibiscus looks like a dead stick with no leaves, and you scrape a bit of bark off with your fingernail and see green underneath, then it is not dead! This is when growth enhancers can work wonders. If you are raising hibiscus in a difficult situation, like not quite enough sun, or too much hot sun all summer, or inside a house, or in less-than-optimum soil, you can use growth enhancers regularly to keep your plants feeling strong and healthy and prevent them from slowly going downhill.The science behind growth enhancers is solid, and works on several different levels. You can read this science on our website on the page about growth enhancers if you are interested. Growth enhancers are rather expensive (for us too!), but the vigor, strength, and health they give our plants makes it an absolutely necessary addition to the care products we use on our plants here at HVH. You may want to consider them too!The growth enhancer we sold formerly was called Synergy, and we have now replaced it with a new one called Super Nova. They are nearly identical in composition, and the cost is exactly the same, but Super Nova is more concentrated, so you use less of it, and a quart container will provide more treatments. We appreciated this savings with our use in the greenhouse, and wanted to pass it on to our customers too.Click here for more information about Growth Enhancers.HVH Special Blend FertilizerBring out the best in your hibiscus with our HVH Special-Blend Fertilizer. It is especially formulated to meet the needs of hibiscus, with extra potassium to produce more, bigger, and brighter-colored flowers, as well as an array of trace nutrients to build stronger, healthier bushes. It's a special blend we developed here at HVH for our own hibiscus growing in our greenhouses. So many customers asked for it that we have been selling it for several years now. Click here for more information. |
|
